The Dragon Kiln

I first saw the big POTTERY sign when we were in a large park section of Western Singapore for a dog hash.  The directions took us past green expanses of new tech parks with an occasional lifeless office building and then moved beyond to a road bordered by open space, across from the sign.  Didn't even think about it.  Later, I learned that the sign points the way to a family-run pottery business, Thow Kwang Industry, which is home to one of the last surviving dragon kilns or “Long Yao” in Singapore.  The kiln, a 6-meter long clay structure (my estimate), was built in the 1940s and was taken over by the current owners, the Tan family, in the 1960s.  They've expanded to include a warehouse store where the family's pottery and ceramics from China are sold, and where they hold pottery classes.  So, last Sunday, I took a trip over to that part of town and spent at least two hours there, totally awed by the place.  I have never seen so much ceramics in one location - vases, statues, bowls, plates figurines.  We witnessed a large kiln in operation, heated by an open fire, when we first got there.  The dragon kiln was dormant, but imposing with its long snout, a chimney at one end and small brick opening at the other.  Due to Singapore's penchant for progress and development, its existence, as many traditional entities in the country, is threatened.  The "lifeless office building" mentioned earlier is part of a "Clean Tech Park" and is the way of the future in this part of Singapore.  Let's hope the dragon kiln survives the area's transformation.

Classroom

The dragon kiln

Pongal

It all started for me last Thursday, when I went to Little India, to have a Salwaar kameez made (a South Asian dress and pants ensemble).  After delivering the fabric to a seamstress at Tekka Market, I wandered over to Campbell Lane to find a Ganesh for a friend.  While I was in a shop there, the cows arrived, in a large, open farm truck - very large cows, at least one bull, actually.  They had arrived to celebrate Pongal, The Tamil Thanksgiving of good harvests.  Pongal originated in South India, but today expands to several countries where Tamils have migrated.  In Singapore, for example, it is one of the largest Hindu festivals celebrated considering the large population of Tamils.  It officially lasts four days,  beginning on the 10th Tamil month, known as Thai, which falls in mid-January every year. Today was the third day, Mattu Pongal, when homage is paid to cattle for ploughing the fields and providing milk.  Wherever Pongal is celebrated, this is the day when the cows are bathed and pampered and decorated, all in the spirit of showing reverence.  Campbell Lane, a Little India focal point for shopping had been transformed into a pedestrian-only street and lined with stands selling fruit, vegetables, flower garlands, cooking pots and stalks of bamboo.  A small outdoor auditorium was set up, next to the livestock pens, where dances and skits were performed.  We happened to be there when several school groups were enjoying the spectacle.  It started to rain.  Then it poured.  It didn't matter.

Mystery Squash

I first saw one of these in Sri Lanka, I think I had seen them in Singapore before, and then picked one up at Tekka Market. It's shaped like a large pear with a bumpy rind, kind of has the taste and texture of a cross between a cucumber and a zucchini.  Soaks up flavors around it like a sponge.  Just stir-fried it with garlic, chile padi and oyster sauce, and leeks and shiitake and a green veggie also unnamed, but I don't care. The guy at Tekka only knew the Chinese name for it, the chef in Sri Lanka called it a gourd squash, and then I googled it and came up with chayote, which supposedly originated in Central America. I'm stumped, but it tasted great!

The Doctor and Camp Leakey

Chris and the Dr. Birute

The day we visited Camp Leakey in the Tanjung Puting National Park will be one that will stay with me forever.  The camp was named after Louis Leakey, paleoanthropologist and mentor to Dr. Birute Galdikas,  the scientist who established the camp decades ago and who has dedicated her life to studying and protecting orangutans and their habitat.  Now in her mid-sixties, she divides her time between her work here, teaching in Jakarta and in Canada, running her foundation in Los Angeles and negotiating with the Indonesian government and industry for the conservation of wild Kalimantan.  Having learned about the Doctor just before our trip, I had come to admire her greatly, this remarkable woman who arrived in Borneo in 1971, pretty much on her own steam.  I was glad that I'd seen a recent photograph of her on the Internet, as I immediately recognized her when she and her son stepped onto our plane from Jakarta to Pangkalan Bun.

A gibbon at feeding time

So, back to Camp Leakey.  We walked through the camp to a feeding station where we were to observe the orangutans feasting on fruit and vegetables provided by the park. When we got to the station, there was already a small contingent of tourists waiting for the ranger to come with the food.  We waited, and waited, probably an hour - watched a wild boar get into position under the feeding platform - interesting-looking fellow with a beard and a long snout capped by a pink....nose?  Then suddenly, a professional camera crew showed up, followed by a large group of Indonesians.  I thought, holy cow, there goes our intimate experience with the orangutans.....  and then the Doctor appeared.  Our great luck was that she was leading a delegation that day of palm oil executives to see the camp and the orangutans, all part of the negotiation process.    It was an awesome experience to see her at work, and observe so many orangutans in close proximity - as soon as she showed up, they appeared out of nowhere.  It was a thrill to observe the great apes as she expounded on their habits, their behavior, their taste in food.  I was enchanted.

Due to our good fortune, we were really late motoring back to Rimba Camp, where we were staying.  As night descended on the canopy, we stood on the bow, looked backwards and watched a lightening show on the horizon.  A great day.

Our home in the jungle

Siswe taking a shine to Chris

Awestruck in Borneo

 We just completed a 5-day trip to the Indonesian portion of Borneo, in the large province of Kalimantan.  This was an unforgettable trip, as we were transported physically and mentally to a remote and amazing place, Tanjung Puting National Park on the southern coast where a sizable population of orangutans is thriving.  We stayed in a rustic camp environment and visited this lush rainforest via the Sekonyer River that snakes through this part of the park.  We were awed by the orangutans, as well as gibbons, proboscis monkeys, macaques, monitor lizards, butterflies, all accompanied by the incredible sounds of the tropical jungle environment.

I'll probably post more about this trip, as I want to gush endlessly about what we experienced, but I must get on a flight to the US tomorrow morning, so it will have to wait (I can hear you holding your breath! Ha!)

In the meantime, please visit http://www.orangutan.org/rainforest/tanjung-puting-national-park if you are so inclined.

Proboscis Monkey

A curious macaque

Pangkalan Buun

Feeding time

Bohan

On the river

Bar Bar Black Sheep

Yes, that's the name of a neighborhood hangout we discovered a while back.  It kind of has the feel of a British pub, and serves very good Thai and Indian food, if that makes any sense.  Usually filled with expats, but Singaporeans seem to like it as well.  The good news is that it is within walking distance from our condo, and they are fine with pooches on the patio.  We try to get a table on the outside so Lucy can lie down in her favorite spot and block the sidewalk.  Folks don't seem to mind...  For those of you in Singapore, Bar Bar Black Sheep is located at 362 Tanjong Katong and there is one at Robertson Quay as well.  http://www.bbbs.com.sg/  Cheers!

Chinatown Tailor

Had a small adventure this week on Pagoda Street in Chinatown.  I needed something to wear for a quasi-fancy performance at the American Club  -  a gig with the American Women's Association Choir here in Singapore.  Normally, I'd just grab a black pair of pants and a black blouse, but these gals tend to dress to the nines for events like this, so I figured I better make an effort.  I was thinking about something simple - a long Chinese-style dress with a mandarin collar and short sleeves.  So I headed to Chinatown, wandered around a bit, worked up my courage and walked into a shop called, "Silk of the Orient".  The owner and head tailor's is Feroz Akbar and he's apparently been in the business for 30 years.  We discussed what I wanted, surrounded by colorful silks, wools, cashmere, a large cutting table and accompanied by the soundtrack of a mesmerizing Moslem prayer recording.   I selected a gorgeous black Shantung silk, Mr. Akbar's assistant measured me and we were off and running.  The whole transaction lasted not more than 10 minutes.  It was ready two days later, so I returned to Pagoda Street, tried on the dress (it's beautiful) and could barely sit in it, let alone imagine playing the piano in it.  That Chinese style, after all, is meant to be slim-fitting.  But, not to worry - they let out the seams a bit in the hip area, so I'm good to go.